Monday, July 4, 2011

Remove the Body, Expose the Frame

Happy Fourth of July!
The next step for this restoration project is to remove the body from the frame. Sounds simple. Most restorations brace the passenger compartment and the door frames and pick up the body in one piece. In this case, this TR3 was parked in a carport with the back end facing west in South Miami where it was rained on by storms coming in from the Everglades and baked in the Florida sun. This resulted in very bad rust through the trunk and the spare tire carrier floor. Additionally, the car had been hit at least twice in the rear which resulted in sheet metal wrinkling in several places. In short, the rear clip, as the back half of the body is called, is beyond repair, at least for my skill level. I got a different rear clip on Ebay that is in much better shape (a topic for a later post).

When I got the car, there was sheet metal riveted to the floor. When it was removed, there were gaping holes in the floor. Examining the inner and outer door sills revealed cancerous rusty holes on both the passenger and driver's. So, the floor pans and door sills will need to be replaced. In reading various repair guides, one suggested restoration plan would be to cut the body in half across the door sills and then repair the front and rear clips independently. Then you very carefully weld in the sills and floor plans while using the frame as a jig for the body. No, I really don't know how I'm going to do that. But like many things so far on this project, I'll figure that out when I get there.

The task this weekend was to cut the body across door sills and floor pans, remove or grind off the dozen or so bolts holding the body to the frame and then lift off the body. Helping me this weekend is my friend Bob Rose, in the long sleeve tee shirt, my son Matt and Kathaleen recording it all for posterity. The first six bolts on the front clip came off easily, as I had presoaked them with lubricating fluid for a week or so. The next step was to cut through the door sills with a reciprociating saw. When the the rust is so pervasive, its better to just take a saw to it. Bob cut through the driver's side. I cut through the passenger side.



The next step was to take some tin snips and cut through the rusty floor pan. Bob is manning the snips. I'm working the big channel lock pliers.



Next, I used a angle grinder to grind through the remaining bolts. Sorry, no good videos for this. Then the front clip comes off!



Cut a few more bolts and the rear clip comes off as well exposing the frame for the first time in perhaps 40+ years.


The frame was covered with a mixture of dirt, sand, rust, greasy residue and a thin coat of black paint. A bit of time with a wire brush and scrapper and things looked much better. No rust holes, a few mysterious dents but not in to bad of shape.

  
The next steps will be to remove the front and rear suspension, the rear axle and the miscellaneous brake lines, fuel lines, etc. Then, the frame may be headed to the sand blasters.  Enough for now.

Pulling the Engine, Part Two

Part of getting this blog underway is learning how to add video clips. You need to upload the videos to YouTube and then publish a link in the blog. My wife, Kathaleen, is the videographer for this project. She's shooting the video and some stills and uploading the clip to YouTube. Then it amazingly simple. Click on share, click on embed and then paste the link in your blog.
earlier, I posted a couple of stills about pulling the engine but here's a video of the same, staring Matt, my son, working the hoist, my friend Tony Trentini on the left side of the car, and your's truly on the right side of the car.



Tony showed up a bit after 8 a.m. on Father's Day and by 9, the deal was done. I don't really have a good excuse about why it's taken two years to get to this point. There was all this stuff in the way in my garage. I was recovering from foot surgery. I didn't have an engine hoist. Well, those last two are pretty good excuses but nevertheless, two years from arrival, the engine is out!

The engine and transmission are out, to be more correct. The two are connected in the engine bay and it took a bit of manipulating to clear the oil pan over a steering tie rod and the gear shift stalk under the battery compartment/firewall opening. As you saw at the end of the video, you just can't leave the engine hanging from the hoist for ever. It just takes up to much room. But just how to store the engine and the transmission so they are out of the way, won't fall over and could be moved if in the way?

One of the things I use for a source of inspiration and ideas are the numerous car shows on TV. Now, nobody's rebuilding a TR3 but there are lots of guys working on cars. Dennis Gage has a show called My Classic Car, http://www.myclassiccar.com/ and he must be buddies with Jay Leno because he's all the time going by Leno's Garage and seeing all manner of automotive machinery. In a recent episode, they went into Jay's engine room and there are engines and transmissions resting on little furniture dollies. That's a great idea. I can get those at Harbor Freight for about $15. With furniture dollies in hand, I proceed to separate the engine and transmission. I was sorry to discover that not all the bolts joining the two were not there and one was broken off. I put one dolly under the engine and one under the transmission with a few blocks to make both at the same height. Wouldn't want to bend anything.


Gentle force separates the transmission from the engine 
Engine number CT32086 - Yes, its a TR4 engine!

The transmission secured to the dolly

The clutch housing
 It feels good to have this big step completed. Next big step is to remove the body.

P.S.  Here's what the engine looked like when I first saw it.

On to the next post.